The advantages of electric vehicles (EVs) are well-known: nonpolluting operation, a renewable power source, safety, and low cost of operation. The disadvantages include limitations on speed, operating range, and convenience as well as the high cost of converting existing vehicles to electric operation; while acknowledging such other disadvantages as lack of effective heating, air conditioning, and power steering, EV advocate Brant says some of the best-known ones are myths. Speed, for instance, is related to body weight, and less weight means more speed. (Weight is, however, also a factor in safety: lighter weight often means less safety, especially in collisions, and Brant doesn't mention the collision factor.) Brant provides comprehensive instruction in converting a vehicle to electric power.
So we will make my own and control it with a micro processer. A PIC or ARV or AREM are what we think. but Which will be fast enough? we Want a fast acceleration so must have a fast micro pro cesser. Will a AREM acceleraet quickly or will a PIC be better?
We are serious and will be working withj hard work to progress this amazing project.
Good help will be treated well.
Your linked bike would have been an excellent choice for an initial project. Not too large and heavy, and a 100-500W motor would be very useful.
But the OP did talk about not having too light vehicle in an accident which does suggest a car. And having 20 car batteries with a combined weight of about 300kg and giving around 60A at over 200V for an hour, the power electronics are not trivial.
Going for LiIon batteries are nice, but so very expensive. And while reducing the weight, it would add a huge problem with the charging - Li-Ion burns/explodes so nicely if incorrectly treated.
Your 'analyis' reminded me of being part of a team that built a Battlebot. We had 3 9-hp brushless DC motors in it running 130V at 800 Amps using LiIon batteries.
Charging was a "big ordeal" yet the only 'explosion' that occured was when an engineer cut the power lines at the same time. The wire-cutters detonated and it rained multen metal all over our machine. My face was a scant 2 feet from the detonation. I was unscathed, but Mr. Current Tester burned his hand fairly badly.
Ahh, those fond memories.
(My role was the DSP controller electronics and the firmware for controlling the motors from the R/C interface)
Mr. Current Tester was a veteran "HIGH-POWER" specialist who made a dumb mistake. It happens to the best of them.
--Cpt. Vince Foster 2nd Cannon Place Fort Marcy Park, VA
A photo of our battery pack (it was double-layered too): http://i.imgur.com/5WS3q.jpg
While I generally agree with all the previous posts, I still feel it's a worth while DIY project.
I suggest that the OP look into IGBT control circuits. IGBT devices, while a bit pricey, quickly move the high power control down to embedded logic levels.
Many IGBT devices have default current level controls. Some Tranzorbs, a few high power by-pass diodes and the "kick" Per mentions can be recovered to help re-charge the batteries.
To the OP.. always have your drive circuits default to the OFF levels. ANY loss of control should default to OFF everything!
Gasoline with it's wide explosion points is still one of the more dangerous items in the general public's hands. Bradford
Lithium batteries can turn pretty nasty...
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